Computer Component Selection

In this section, Computer Component Selection, we will review each component and part you need to know, and we'll give you specific suggestions and recommendations.

Always Get the Manual - Good-quality computer components from the major manufacturers will always come with a good manual, as well as other information. This is called "documentation." For those new to building computers, documentation is extremely important. You will be referring to the manual when configuring and installing every component and some parts. NEVER buy a component without its manual. Always look for it.

OEM hardware - "Original Equipment Manufacturer" hardware is computer hardware (components and parts) that is usually of the same quality as the manufacturer's other good-quality products, but for whatever reason, the hardware was dumped.

OEM products are placed in bulk packaging, come with little or no warranty, usually have little if any documentation (including a manual!), and usually come with no extras like cables and support software. Yes, the price is way cheaper. But so what? If you don't know what you're doing, using OEM products can easily create unnecessary and difficult complications. Unless you don't need your computer working soon, I recommend you stay away from OEM hardware.

Now, lets look at the components in a computer:

Processor

The level of processor you will need will be determined by your intended use of the computer.

• Standard or Basic Computers:
  If your interests are in non-demanding programs, then you'll want an AMD Duron® or an Intel® Celeron®. These processors are very good for standard office programs, and they are inexpensive.

• Mid-Rand Computers:
  This is the level processor that is most popular today. This level is appropriate not only for business programs, but also for more demanding programs, such as PhotoShop®, Coral® Draw, and all but the most intensive latest games. These processors include the AMD Athlon® XP and Intel® Pentium® IV's.

• High-End Computers:
  These are the AMD Athlon® 64, the Intel® Pentium® D and Pentium® 4. These processors have the most on-board memory and are capable of handling memory-intensive programs, including the latest games. Benchmarking tests clearly show the Athlon® 64's, especially the 3800, 4000, and the FX-55, all have an advantage for gamers over anything Intel® has to offer. For gamers, these Athlon® models are preferred.

  Nevertheless, all of the better AMD and Intel® processors can handle memory-intensive programs. Even some of the older processors such as the AMD Athlon® XP and earlier versions of the Intel® Pentium® 4 are capable of handling memory-intensive programs.

Upgrading a Processor - If you're going to buy a new processor for an older case, you want to make sure the processor will fit into the case before you buy it! Also, you must pay careful attention to a new processor's cooling needs!

You may need to increase air flow. That means an additional fan must be installed into the case. If your case will not accommodate the recommended fan placement for a new processor, buy a new case that will meet requirements! Otherwise the processor will probably"burn."

Fans - Should you need to purchase a fan, make sure it is of the ball bearing variety and not a cheaper (and ineffective) sleeve bearing type fan.

Also, if possible, try not to plug the fan directly into the power supply. It is much better if it can be plugged into the CPU_FAN 3-pin plug on the motherboard. Also, on older cases, the heat sink may be separate from the fan. If this is the case (a pun!), make sure the heat sink is attached to the processor. This is done with clips or with heat sink compound. Sounds messy. I recommend the clip.

Used Processors - Incidentally, always perform a simple inspection before buying a used processor. While not touching the pins, inspect to make sure they are not bent. If they are, do not buy.

RAM Memory

The selection of memory is usually fairly simple. SDRAM is seen in inexpensive computers today. For non-demanding programs, this is fine. DDR2 SDRAM is a newer standard of SDRAM memory that is faster. DDR SDRAM and DDR2 SDRAM is highly efficient. While SDRAM, DDR SDRAM, and DDR2 SDRAM share about the same technology, they are not interchangeable. DDR and DDR2 memory can only be used in systems that have been designed specifically for their use.

Because types of memory are not interchangeable, the type of memory that you purchase will be determined by the type of memory required by the motherboard.

A third type of memory is Rambus memory, or RDRAM. But RDRAM is now old technology and, in fact, was never popular because of its high cost. RDRAM has several troubling issues. The first is a compatibility problem. RDRAM will only work within a very specific computer environment. Also, RDRAM generates much more heat than other RAM memory. This has proven to be an unwelcomed major inconvenience. So, if someone offers to sell you some nice RDRAM memory, just say "NO"!

Our recommendations for RAM Memory are as follows:

• Standard or Basic Computers:
  Windows XP has a minimum requirement of 128MB of SDRAM. While that amount of memory is acceptable for a basic computer, we recommend a 256MB Single Channel PC-3200 SDRAM 400MHz.

• Mid-Rand Computers:
  We recommend you get at least 256MB Single Channel DDR PC-3200 SDRAM 400MHz. DDR SDRAM is only slightly more expensive than SDRAM, but it adds a nice edge. Of course, 512 MB of RAM would be better.

• High-End Computers:
  At the high-end, you should look for only the best. That means 1GB of RAM and Duel Channels. Oddly enough, 2GB of RAM slows games down, so use 1GB maximum. Thus, we recommend 1GB Low Latency or Ultra Low Latency DDR PC-3200 SDRAM at 400MHz. Incidentally, never touch memory contacts.

Hard Drive

This is one item that is always best purchased new. Make sure you have the manual, as the information in it is important. If you buy an older hard drive, look for a jumper diagram on the drive itself or in the manuel.

Types of Interface -
All hard disk drives must use an interface in order to connect with other components in the computer. There are several types of hard disk interface that you should know about:

• SCSI - (pronounced "scuzzy") is now old technology and is no longer used. At one time it was the best available, but was always more expensive and hard to configure.

• IDE - (pronounced as individual letters) is also old technology that use to be the most common interface used through 2003. Some refer to it as parallel ATA or PATA. New computers usually will not have PATA.

• SATA - or Serial ATA, is the next generation drive interface following the older technology of PATA. SATA technology is clearly superior to PATA and began to show up in computers in 2002. For 2003-2004, computers often included both IDE and SATA. SATA offers a speedier booting and has faster loading of programs and data. SATA is now common in new mid-level and high-end computers.

• Ultra ATA - is slightly improved PATA. It uses the maximum limit in PATA technology and is now found in less-expensive and less-powerful computers.

Speed - An important factor in the selection of a hard drive is speed. Hard drive speed is given in RPM, revolutions per minute, and today is at 5400 RPM, 7200 RPM, and 10,000 PRM.

Following are our hard drive recommendations:

• Standard or Basic Computers:
  While most folks, including university students, would find 20GB of storage to be all they needed, however 40GB at 5400 RPM at is now considered standard.

• Mid-Rand Computers:
  Mid-level computers now often come with 80GB at 7200 RPM. This will easily handle MP3s music downloads and family photo editing.

• High-End Computers:
  High-end computers assume the need for larger files, like those for larger music or photo collections, video editing or the use of other graphics-intensive programs. We recommend a minimum of 120GB at 7200 RPM. However, with video editing or the need for more file space, then 200GB or even 500GB, both at 7200 RPM is available. You can always add a second or more hard drives later to a computer.

The Case

There are several basic designs to pick from:

• Flat Desktop - These cases lay horizontally under the monitor. They use to be very common in offices but they are not as popular as they use to be.

• Tower - This design is much more practical. It is the easiest design to work within. Expansion is usually never a problem because there's lots of room. Make sure the tower will fit in the space where you plan to keep it in your home or office. Allow for the flow of air in front and in back. If there's not enough room, then you will have to go with a smaller design. All things being equal, we recommend the tower design.

• Mini-tower - is a smaller vertical case, which means it is more difficult to work within. However, this case is very popular as it will fit into a smaller space around the desk. Only use an mini-tower if space is a serious problem.

• Mini-PC - Sometimes called a "cube", this is a newer, smaller design option. In my opinion it should be avoided. However, some folks like the novelty of its odd shape. You will have less choice of computer components because most need to be specially designed to fit into mini-PC. However, some versions are powerful machines of gaming quality. It's available in a "barebones" kit form as well as in full computer packages.

Quality - If you can afford it, there are a number of advantages to buying a better case. They're better designed. Access is possible without tools. The interior is easier to work within, for both building and servicing. Hard drives will be on slide-out trays and not always in the way. Cables will be labeled and color-coded, which is very nice. Also, quality may also indicate the quality of the Power Supply, which is very important, but often ignored.

Other Points:

• Check the sturdiness of the case. Some cases are too flimsy inside.

• Make sure the case you select can be closed easily. Some are very difficult to close, or to open. The screwless type is best.

• Also, avoid a case that comes apart into many pieces. They're a pain.

• Look for at least two USB ports, preferably in front.

• If you get the tower case, make sure you have enough room for expansion with at least two free bays and a free PCI slot. If you have an graphics integrated mobo, look for a free AGP port.

• If you have a camcorder and you intend to do video editing, you will want a FireWire (IEEE 1394) port.

Power Supply

Every case will have its own power supply which comes with the case. Make sure it has one that will accommodate the hardware you wish to use. Many cases, especially older ones, are only 250 watts. It used to be OK. But now with more powerful computers, components require more wattage. Now, all Power Supplies should be 400 watts.

The power supply is often given little thought by most computer builders, yet the power supply is one of the most critical parts of the computer. Because it is so often ignored, manufacturers (who know this) will use the cheapest power supply they can get away with.

Cheap power supplies often lack stability. They create electric spikes and surges that eventually will melt sensitive parts. In fact, the power supply is the one component that most often fails! Faulty power supplies are the Number One cause of serious damage to computers!

Get a 400 Watt power supply. Installing a good power supply will do more to protect your computer than anything else you do.

Motherboard

The motherboard, or mobo, is an important component in the computer. In one way or another, everything inside a computer connects to it. There are several things to be mindful of.

Always think about future expansion when selecting a motherboard. Evaluate your present needs, and select a mobo that is bigger. A motherboard is one of those things that is best when it is more than you immediately need.

BIOS - The Basic Input Output System (BIOS) (pronounced bye-oss) is a pre-programmed chip embedded on the motherboard. The BIOS provides the memory, monitor, keyboard, and printer with instructions on how to do basic things and accomplish simple tasks. The BIOS doesn't control the computer. That's the job of the operating system.

Mobo Types - Although there are many levels of motherboards, for the purpose of categorization, they may be thought of as being of two types:

• Inexpensive Multi-use Mobos Fair to good quality boards are made for the non-technical average computer user. These inexpensive boards are characterized by offering a package of goodies built into the board, such as a sound, video, modem. They have limited range of CPU support, often overclocking is not especially good, usually with zero expandability. They are cheap and are made for popular ready-made computers purchased in stores.

• Standard Mobos Very good to superior quality boards with a lot of technical goodies. They typically have multiple hard drive controller options including EIDE and SCSI, most come with on-board sound, and some come with on-board video. Often the sound and video can be disabled enabling the use of better-quality, separate sound and video cards. There is usually good processor support, good overclocking, good voltage, lots of multiplier settings, a good number of PCI slots, and they usually come with a built-in network card.

Form Factors - Motherboards come in two form factors. You will have to select which form is best for you. The two forms are AT and ATX:

• AT Regular AT form factors were used in early computers and will usually not fit into most present-day cases. The Baby AT form factors are the most commonly seen today. They measure around 8.5 X 13 inches. A common problem with Baby AT forms is the location of the processor; it's in the front and can sometimes get in the way of expansion cards.

• ATX The ATX form factor is a superior design in many ways. While the Baby AT is acceptable, the ATX is much preferable.

In/Out (I/O) Bus Slots

Embedded on the mobo, the type and number of I/O bus slots is an important consideration. There are two types in current use:

• PCI - As the present port standard, PCI is used for a number of boards, including some video cards and all sound cards. Since Intel will soon double the 33 MHz speed of the PCI bus, the PCI has a bright future. We recommend you find a mobo with five PCI ports. Four ports may be adequate. However, some may have only three PCI ports, especially if the video and sound is integrated (embedded) onto the mobo.

• AGP - The Accelerated Graphics Port (AGP) allows 3D imaging software to have accelerated access to RAM memory. This provides enhanced image rendition which means superior quality graphics. We recommend you look for two empty AGP slots (but feel lucky if you get even one). If you do graphic-intensive work, you must locate a mobo that has at least one AGP.

• Note: Since late 2000, mobos are no longer manufactured with ISA ports. ISA cards should be avoided. (Of course, if you're working on an older computer, ignore this remark.)

Chipset

The chipset is the part where peripherals are connected (plugged) into the computer (actually the motherboard). Because the chipset has a set number of connectors, in effect it establishes the limit of future upgrades. Therefore, you should pay attention to the chipset before you purchase a mobo.

• Parallel Port
  A parallel port is used to connect a printer.

• Serial Ports
  A serial port is used to connect a mouse, keyboard, joystick or other similar device.

• USB
  Embedded on the mobo, the Universal Serial Bus (USB) is a one-size-fits-all connector. Peripherals may be connected without turning off the computer or removing the computer cover.

  Eventually, USB connections will replace all parallel and serial connections. This will greatly simplify connections as it will eliminate the need to identify ports, eliminate the need for adopter expansion cards, etc.

  Monitors, keyboards, mice, joysticks, low-resolution digital cameras, low-Speed CD-ROM drives, and modems that don't need high performance connections will all use USB. USB's usually come in two's.

A few things to look for:

• Size - Because some mobos are larger than others, make sure the one you select will fit into the case.

• Cache Module - A very few motherboards do not have an L2 cache embedded. If that is the case, you may need to buy one and install it.

• Mobo-Processor Compatibility - Not all motherboards are compatible with all processors. The sticking points are voltage and speed. Here's why:

  • Voltage - The mobo's voltage regulator converts voltage to the core voltage of the processor. The problem is that the voltage regulator is designed to supply only certain voltages. Therefore, it is necessary to match a mobo's voltage capability to that of the processor.

  • Speed - Also, the mobo's processing speed and the processor's processing speed must be within the same range.

  • Jumpers - Connectivity within the case is done by Softmenu, DIP switches, or jumpers. Each one controls the CPU clock speed, bus speed, and CPU voltage.

When building a computer, the motherboard manual has information you must have. When buying a mobo, don't forget to get the manual.

Video Card

A video card, sometimes called a graphics accelerator or graphics card, is what displays images and text on the monitor.

Integrated System
While the use of graphics technology is usually in the form of a removable board, at times, especially on less-expensive boards, the video card comes as chip permanently attached on the motherboard.

The less expensive Intel Celeron and AMD Duron processors usually have mobos with this type of integrated system.

One disadvantage is that with an integrated system, video graphics will draw on the system's memory as well as the mobo's memory. This reduces the amount of memory available for the rest of the computer. With light computer use (word processing, eMail, surfing the Internet), this is not a problem. However, a mobo with an integrated system can create a problem during serious gaming or any other graphics-intensive work.

A way around this problem is to add a video card to the computer. However, this will only work with some mobos which have an empty AGP slot.

The quality and price of video cards does vary:

• Basic - If you intend to use the computer only for eMail, word processing, surfing, and business programs, then an integrated graphics mobo or an inexpensive card with 32MB of SDRAM will do nicely.

• Mid Level - Also in the mid level, an integrated graphics mobo or a simple, solid but inexpensive card with 32MB of SDRAM is perfectly acceptable. If you're interested in running games, note that older games should run without flicker on an older 3D/2D video card with 64MB of DDR SDRAM. You can squeeze by with 32MB, but image quality may not be as good. These mid level boards are now considered "budget." However, there's no reason to go higher (and pay more money).

• High End - If your interest is in the newer, more sophisticated, texture-rich, full-motion 3D games, video editing, or any other graphics-intensive work, you'll need a high-end video card. Two manufacturers are ATI and NVidia. More sophisticated gamers and video editors need a card that can:

  • Deliver 60 frames per second (fps) in order to avoid the dreaded flicker, and
  • 128MB (or higher) DDR SDRAM of video memory. Make sure it's "DDR" memory.

Some high-end video graphics cards now come with TV tuners or TV-out channels. This type of TV add-on is found on high-end video graphics cards. Unfortunately, the general quality of a video graphics card is usually compromised when TV add-ons are added! This technology is certainly the wave of the future. However today, buying a good ole' standard TV can be cheaper and much more practical.

If you want a superior high-end card that will make you drool, I recommend you buy a PURE video card. Don't buy an expensive video card that sacrifices performance for the sake of unnecessary TV add-ons.

Note: If you play DirectX 8 games, you will need a video board that supports DirectX 8 hardware acceleration.

Retail stores usually carry a limit selection of video cards. Don't forget to look online.

Other Parts to Consider

Sound Card & Speakers

Many motherboards have sound integrated into the board. Inexpensive speakers are available. That will be adequate for many office and home environments. If you're interested in better quality sound, you may wish to get a better sound card and speakers. For under $300 you can get a SoundBlaster sound card with Dolby and a decent set of speakers.

Monitor

Naturally, you need a monitor. Select one you feel comfortable using. I recommend getting at least a 17 inch. You may wish to get one that is larger. Flat screens are very nice but more expensive. Look at monitors in stores. Text will show if the monitor is really sharp, graphics do not! So ask to see text on any monitor you may be interested in.

Optical Drives (CD / DVD)

You will find you need a CD-ROM or CD/DVD-ROM up and running as soon as possible so you can use it to install the operating system. Therefore, make sure the CD-ROM or CD/DVD-ROM comes with its driver installation disk. This will allow you to install the CD-ROM driver even without the CD-ROM or CD/DVD-ROM being fully installed.

To do this, get at least a 40X ATAPI compatible IDE and not a proprietary interface. If you buy new, this will not be a problem.

You may wish to get a CD/DVD-RW, which enables you to play or write a CD or DVD disc. These are very handy for doing back-ups.

You may also want to get a CR/DVD-ROM, whish is a player for CD's and DVD's. You can use it to hear CD's, watch DVD movies, and use DVD software on your computer.

Floppy Drive

Some people think they don't really need a floppy disk drive, only to find they have to install one later. Might as well do it straight off.

Keyboard & Mouse

There is now a trend to replace the current standard PS/2 port to the up-and-coming USB port. More features are possible with USB, such as expanded keyboard capability (additional buttons) and a mouse with a scroll wheel.

If you want to use a older keyboard or mouse and the port you need isn't there, you'll need to get an adopter. If you're buying new, it's a good idea to buy the keyboard and mouse after you buy the mobo to make sure everything will easily plug in.

There are three main styles of mice:

The "standard" Microsoft Mouse is the most popular. It usually comes with two buttons, but some have three. They come in right- and left-handed versions. Most people find the standard mouse to be comfortable to use. But not I.

The mouse I have been using for years is the oval designed Logitech Marble Mouse, which has a large red marble or trackball. Instead of moving the mouse around on the mouse pad, the Marble Mouse remains stationary. The curser is moved by rolling the red ball around on your fingers or palm. I find it very convenient, considerably faster, and very much easier to use than a standard mouse. In fact, I now find standard mice to be awkward to use.

Another type of mouse that is popular is the IntelliMouse. It's a standard mouse with an additional wheel between and parallel with the two buttons. When you roll the wheel back and forth, you scroll up and down the screen without having to click on any scroll bar.

Cables, Screws, & Washers

Cables, screws, and washers will come with hardware you buy. Check and make sure you have them all. Sometimes a different cable may be needed. Check and make sure the CD/DVD-ROM and CD/DVD-RW have their audio cables.

When mounting a drive into the case, you can actually crack it by using the wrong size screw. Never make due with a wrong sized screw.

Make sure you have a supply of screws and computer washers in all the sizes you will need. Check to be sure the "stand-off" screws came with the mobo. (These are screws that raise the board 1/8th inch from the plate when it is attached in the case.)

A Few Words About Operating Systems

Operating systems differ widely in their ability to install easily. If you're a newbie to O/S installations, there are a few things you should be told.

Windows 95 installation requires working knowledge of DOS. New installation of Windows 98 also requires knowledge of DOS, but not if the installation is an upgrade. This is an important consideration in selecting which O/S to select. Expect a Win 95 or 98 installation to be frustrating. Unless you must have Win 95 or 98, it would be much better to select Windows XP.

Windows NT and Windows 2000 installations are just plain difficult. These should only be attempted by those with a lot of experience.

Windows ME - AVOID - brings back bad memories. This O/S is very unstable, this means it will crash your computer, often and completely. If you now have a Win ME, upgrade to Win XP now.

Windows XP - Recommended - is an excellent operating system. It is usually easy to install and is very stable. It has loads of features and it is inexpensive.

[ Step 2: Case Preparation ]